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 The Pelican Press
March 22, 2001
Hillview Grill: Fresh seafood with a
Cajun-Carib accent by Karen Mamone
When Miles Millwee opened the Hillview Grill, he was convinced that there was an opening in the local market for folks who didn't want to go to a chain restaurant, but also didn't want a "fine dining" restaurant where you had to get all dressed up and dust off your Gold Card.
Thirteen years of success has proved him correct. One of the cornerstones of the Southside Village gourmet district that includes S. Osprey and Hillview, the Hillview Grill has made its reputation as a casual restaurant with a menu that focuses on fresh fish and seafood.
The creamy butterscotch-colored interior, with it high proportion of booths—and a cozy bar (with its own regulars)—creates the welcoming feel of a neighborhood restaurant. Cool jazz and greenery make it urbane and relaxing.
It is a formula Millwee also followed—with a few variations—at the equally popular Madfish Grill on Cattlemen Road, which he opened two years ago.
Known also for Cajun-Creole and Caribbean-accented fish, Hillview is equally popular at lunch, when it draws from the nearby hospital and downtown crowd.
Lunchtime offerings include homemade soups, salads, sandwiches and paninis. Fresh fish—salmon, tuna and a catch of the day—are always available chargrilled or blackened and served with soup or salad and a choice of the Grill's signature black bean and rice salad, a house potato or fresh fruit.
Lighter appetites relish the soup and Caesar salad combo and the soup and half sandwich, available with black bean soup, gazpacho or a soup de jour; and a sandwich of smoked turkey, chicken salad, roast beef and swiss, ham and cheddar or a crabcake melt. These run $5 to $6.
Some interesting main dish salads include: Mandarin Chicken, Pan-Seared Tuna au Poivre, Pine Island Chicken Breast, Spicy Shrimp Caesar, and Grilled Chicken with portobello mushrooms. The Caesars are helpfully available in a small or large size.
A special daily quiche, Jambalaya, and cashew chicken over linguine, and a half-pound build-your-own burger round out the midday offerings, all priced under $7.
At dinner, you can start with some tasty Cajun stuffed mussels, topped with crabmeat; or a sashimi-style seared tuna, New Orleans-style barbecued shrimp, baked brie, or a selection of soups and salads. Several starters are also available as entrée-sized dishes.
The grilled or blackened fresh fish entrée is also available in dinner sizes, prices at $15 - $19. Other seafood favorites include macadamia-crusted catch of the day, grouper, barbecued salmon, grilled rainbow trout, Mediterranean shrimp and shrimp piccata. These range from $15 - $20 and come with soup or salad, a starch and crisp, fresh vegetables.
Millwee, who developed his taste for Cajun and Creole foods in his native Texas and Louisiana, said that his patrons' favorites include a Louisiana Delight, scallops and shrimp in spicy cream sauce served over linguine; jambalaya; and macadamia-crusted fish.
Several changing nightly specials supplement the evening menu, which on a recent weeknight included pork tenderloin with mashed sweet potatoes, and seared fresh tuna cakes.
Carnivores may select from the cashew chicken, as well as filet mignon, New York strip steak, mixed grill roasted duckling or rack of lamb. Dinner sandwiches are also available, and include a salmon club, burger or steak. Entrees at dinner start at $7 and range upward to the $22 filet mignon.
Hillview has a full bar, and a wine cellar of 120-150 varieties specializing in American wines, with a dozen or so available by the glass. Flights of red or white wine (three 2-ounce servings, intended to showcase the varying characteristics) also are offered at $6.75.
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